North Star Orchard • A Market Where Friendships Bloom

A Market Where Friendships Bloom

Produce is for sale and connections are for keeps

Published Sunday, July 24th, 2004
The Philadelphia Inquirer • Chester County Edition
Written by Lisa Kerschner, co-owner of North Star Orchard

Ah, the sights and sounds of the farmers market: the reds, yellows and greens of heirloom tomatoes and specialty greens, the snippets of conversations between friends, the fragrance of perfectly ripe peaches and herbs, the whisperings of "secret" recipes and serving suggestions for lesser-known fruits and veggies.

I look around from behind the table at my own stand and marvel at the hustle and bustle: the happy faces, the sense of community, the connectedness. The farmers happily greet the regulars, perhaps pointing out a new variety of produce or catching up with the little bits of life they share with each customer. The shoppers, in turn, greet the farmers, asking how recent weather will affect crops, how to best prepare a particular vegetable or fruit, or how we plan to spend our winter "time off."

As I watch, I also think back to this same spot, 10 summers ago, when the West Chester Growers' Market was new. Back then, there were no producer markets in the area - in which the person selling the produce also grew the produce. At the time there were only markets in which third parties acted as liaisons between growers and customers.

Having previous experience with producer-only markets in New York City, I knew that such markets were great for a community. Connecting the farmers directly with the people who buy and use their produce is a great way to encourage the preservation of farmland. It also allows the farmers to earn a living wage, provides a variety of fresh produce to the increasing number of people concerned about where their food comes from, and creates a way for people in a community to connect. I routinely see people either coming to the market after having breakfast downtown, or visiting with friends for lunch after meeting each other at the market.

When we began North Star Orchard in 1992, however, I mostly thought about the sales aspect of the farmers market. It was our means of earning a living, and not much more than that. How naive I was. Yes, the market provides us with income and shoppers with food. But the rewards are even greater. In this era of high-speed Internet and cell phones, being able to connect with people face-to-face is important. To be able to meet, talk with, and get to know the people who are selecting, buying and enjoying the food that we grow is invaluable.

The customers we have met over the years have come to feel like family. Friendships have been formed, whether they are "market-season" friends we see every week for short periods of time, or the loyal customers who later became part-time employees. We've made friends like Martha, who taught me how to knit, and young Kai who shares our son's love of Legos. Discussions in the market include not only what's in season, but also such subjects as the latest Harry Potter film or a science subject we will be covering in our homeschool.

The value of the market poignantly hit home during the aftermath of Sept. 11, 2001. I doubted that people would even come to the market that week. It was hard to go about normal life. But what we saw was astounding. People were subdued, to be sure, but shoppers and farmers alike needed to connect. They came more for community than for produce. All those snippets of life we had shared over the years brought a familiarity that made it possible to share our feelings about such a tremendous tragedy. There were hugs and tears to be seen, and stories to be shared. It was truly amazing.

The colors and sights at the market continually change, over a season and even day to day. Tables overflowing with a rainbow of colors at the beginning of the day look decidedly less vibrant as they empty. The crowd of customers dwindles, and we hear calls of "See you next week!" from both shoppers and farmers. Customers look satisfied, and farmers look tired. Another market day is done, and it's time to pack up.

I'm already looking forward to seeing the colorful, fresh bounty of produce, and the faces of familiar and new friends, that will arrive next week.

The West Chester Growers' Market, at the corner of Church and Chestnut Streets, is open 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. every Saturday, rain or shine, from May through November.